Wabash fabric has actually been around longer than denim. It was the first introduced by a German family that migrated to West Virginia, J.L.Stifel and Sons back in around 1840s-50s.

Famed by their indigo-dyed calico garments, .J.L. Stifel and Sons were also one, if not the main introducer of indigo-dyed garments to America.

The fabric although it had a formal look, was mainly used by the rail-workers across America. The namesake and design came from the native Wabash Indian tribes, a famous tribe that battled the American confederate back in 1791 (known as St Clair's defeat). 

The stripes on the fabric are actually dots, these dots are made by drops of starch in continued lines down the fabric. Once dried, the fabric is then indigo dyed. Where the starch drops are the indigo doesn't take to the fabric, leaving the "Wabash" stripes.

There are many modern versions of the fabric, many utilizing the Wabash technique to create interesting patterns. See below for a few examples;

Johan Ludwig Stifel was an apprentice dyer and calico printer from Germany. In 1833 he immigrated to the United States, where he worked for a local farm in Wheeling, West Virginia.

In 1835 Johan's interest in textiles was still his main passion and with all his savings he bought a single bolt of unbleached cotton. He then hand-dyed and sold it. Later, he repeated the process again, this started a new business which would introduce the world to Wabash fabrics.

Calico is smoother than canvas or denim but very resistant, it made its biggest success in the world of workwear clothing. Typical calicos had polka dots, flowers, dotted lines and ticking to name some of the most popular motifs.

From such small beginnings, Stifel and Sons have developed into a giant calico works, becoming the first plant in the nation to print yard-wide indigo blue calico. This in-turn, saw Stifel fabrics shipped all over of the world and made into clothing.

The brand logo, a boot (meaning"Stiefel" in German) with the word “Stifel” inside, connecting Johan's German heritage and learnings to the brand. 

In modern-day times, J.L.Stifel & Sons are known as an American textile and denim manufacturing brand which became prominent from 1835 to 1956 and a leader in indigo-dyed cotton calicos. 

Henry David Lee started, H.D. Lee Merchantile Co. as a wholesale grocer back in 1889. It wasn't until 1911, due to unreliable shipments of their supplies, they decided to take a different direction and produce workwear.

In the first manufacturing for H.D. Lee Merchantile Co, were the now-famous vintage Lee Bib Overall. These overalls were made of 8 oz. denim and had a multifunctional breast pocket with a button fly. 

In 1913, the“coverall” was developed which combined the jacket with a bib overall being stitched together. This garment was called "Union-All" and Lee Union-All (Coverall) was created. 

The "Union-All" was commissioned by the U.S. Army and was the official fatigue uniform during World War I. Later the words “UNION MADE” were included with the Lee Brand Name on many of its labels.

In 1926 Lee introduced slide adjusters on the bib overall straps to offer a better fit for the wearer.

See "Lee Railroad Jacket" to continue the history of the Lee brand.

In 1921, Lee introduced the “Railroad Jacket”. It was designed specifically for railroad workers and named the "Loco Jacket" as its’ detailed features were actually tested by the railroad workers themselves. 

Lee was famous for their railroad jackets, which could be identified by the house silhouette on the jacket tab, also noting the description “Jelt Denim and Sanforized”. 

Around the end of the 1920s, Lee introduced the first denim jacket with a zipper closure known as the 91. This workwear line included the Lee 91 and Lee 191 series jacket. 

Lee continued to focus on workwear, specifically designing for “worker trades”. In addition to the earlier described railroad jacket, in 1927 Lee introduced the “Logger dungarees featuring wider hips, watch pockets and suspender buttons

One of the biggest sort after pieces from Lee nowadays isn't even a garment, it the Buddy Lee Doll. Released in 1922 for promotional reasons, these dolls can go for as much as $2000 each.

Between 1922 -1948 the 12 1/2" dolls were made from a hard moulding composition and later raised to 13" and made from hard plastic in 1949-1960.

Dressed in denim bib-overalls and other Lee garments, the Buddy Lee doll became a mascot for the H.D. Lee Company and was even used in their television advertisements.

They had lightly painted hair, painted side glancing eyes, painted upper eyelashes, painted closed mouth, jointed only at the shoulders, black painted boots and was dressed in original Lee clothes depicting various occupations.

A hole in the left foot it possible for the doll to stand up on a shelf to show off the garments in-store, for all to see.

Through their new mascot, Lee rose to one of the biggest denim brands. Sales of the dolls became the second biggest-selling doll of its time in the United States, due to the company encouraging stores to retail them off as the displays were taken down.

In 1962 the dolls became not profitable and were then discontinued, some female versions called "Betty Lee" do pop up from time to time, but there was no official release by Lee. The female dolls were called "Carnival dolls", as many said they were actually sold as prizes at the local or travelling Carnivals.

1998 saw the return of the Buddy Lee dolls by the advertisement agency Fallon McElligott. This was aimed to promote 17 - 22-year-olds to but the "Can't Bust Em" Lee dungarees line.

Winters can get extremely cold, especially in some parts of the world. If you were lucky back in the early 1900s, you would buy a fur coat.

Fur was always known as the most natural heat concealing, wind and waterproof garments. Natives would wear them in the colder months and line their huts and homes with hides.

The original Grizzly was developed in 1910 by Summit. It had a mouton back and front, horsehide leather sleeves and a knitted collar. Pictured below.

The Grizzly jackets that took the 30s by storm, originated from the Edes Robe Tanning Company, established in 1905.

Their main business was making fur lap robes out of ponyskin for carriages and early open-roofed automobiles. Due to carriages being completely replaced by the new closed roofed automobiles, the lap robes became obsolete.

Faced with possible closure, Edes took a new direction into the fur coat business, producing for men and women under the new King-O-Fur label.

Wanting to stand out from the crowd, the owner took style inspiration from the latest waist-length leather jackets. Made with the best ponyskin they could find, the 1927 King-O-Fur fur blouse was made. This jacket featured a ponyskin body with horsehide sleeves and trim, made in the new "cossack" style snap front.

Blanket weaving has been a Chimayo tradition for over four centuries. The practice has been perfected and passed down from generation to generation, and the unique patterns created by the weavers are recognized all over the world.

In fact, they’ve become so popular that visitors from all over flock to Chimayo to obtain beautifully woven blankets, rugs, pillows, and garments.

In 1540, five thousand churro sheep accompanied Coronado and his men during his famous expedition. These sheep were so valued for their wool, the Chimayo settlers used them as their flocks to weave their blankets when they reached New Mexico.

By 1840, blankets were in high demand, with records showing tens of thousands of wool blankets were shipped around the world from New Mexico.

Although the Chimayo design is the most recognised nowadays, The Rio Grande blanket was the original, earning many Chimayo weavers well-deserved recognition and respect for their creativity.

After 40 years of booming success, the mill-woven blanket industry posed a major threat to many Chimayo weavers, new breeds of sheep produced inferior wool and the blankets plummet in value.

In the early 1900s, weavers from Santa Fe started a new blanket style that consisted of two simple stripes and a centre design. This became known as the “Chimayo Design,” and it began a brand new industry for the weavers.

After World War II, the weaves from the Ortega family hired other families to help keep up with the demand. They started to make coats, vests, purses and other apparel out of their weavings. The general store was a thing of the past and the Ortega's Weaving Shop became the icon it is today.

Four main woven designs that can be found today, which shouldn't be confused about being just the "Chimayo" design. These are as follows:

Chimayo Design

The Chimayo style is basically two stripes and a centre design. The stripes were derived from the Rio Grande blanket, and the centre design was a homage to the Saltillo tapestry techniques. 

Rio Grande Design

Although today "Rio Grande" encompasses the entire weaving tradition of Hispanic New Mexico, it is described as a weft-faced, striped, blanket, longer than it is wide, sometimes incorporating elements drawn from the Saltillo style within its stripes. 

Saltillo Design

These pieces have their design roots in the Classic Saltillos of eighteenth and nineteenth-century Mexico. Saltillos here are much simpler and coarser, the style was a bordered rectangle with a serrate diamond in the centre.

Vallero Design

The Vallero style added an eight-pointed star element to the Saltillo's vertical border and central diamond motif. The Trampas Vallero, the most common variation, has one star in the centre and stars in each of the four corners. 

 

"TYPE I"

"TYPE II"

"TYPE III"

Fabric Change

The original "sawtooth" shirt was developed by Jack A. Weil. Jack was actually the inventor of the Western shirt design. 

He wanted cowboys to wear more striking and handsome style shirts, but keep some normality to the design.

For those who aren't familiar with who Jack A. Weil is, you may know his brand Rockmount Ranch Wear. Jack patented the sawtooth design pocket flaps and diamond snap buttons, the name "sawtooth" from what the cult historians have said was actually from the jagged stitching on the pockets and yoke, which resembled "sawteeth". 

Rockmount Sawtooth

Nowadays, the name is recognised by the pocket design and even Jack himself called them sawtooth pockets.

In the 1950s, with Jack's patent expiring, Levi's brought out their own sawtooth denim shirt design. It featured similarly shaped chest pockets, round "Gripper" or "Dot" snaps and a different yoke.

Levi's sold this style of the shirt, first under their "Short Horn",  "Denim Family" and "Long Horn" labels.

Today, LVC bring out different shade variations, with a few other brands selling their own versions.

Levi's Denim Family Sawtooth

Levi's LongHorn Sawtooth

 A few years ago whilst learning about Indonesian denim makers, I came across a few bootmakers. One of these makers was Txture. 

Txture stood out to me through their photos and other visual candy via Instagram. I actually contacted a few makers asking questions and learning about the brands. When it came time to order I wanted to try two different makers, trouble being with one deciding to do a "raffle" type ordering system and me not being a gambling man, I went just ordered from Txture.

Ordering was easy and communication was not a problem either. Once I had my design (Sanity Boots), they gave me a quote including shipping, in an invoice via email. This showcased everything I wanted in the design, from there I was given instructions on how to measure my feet and added those measurements to the invoice.

Due to these being handmade and welted, the timing is longer than many other machine-made shoes. Txture also makes a last for future orders, meaning the timings are then shorter the second time around.

Once all the details, measurements and payment was done, it was just a waiting game, unfortunately, my order was at the start of Coronavirus, thus blowing out the timings quite significantly (from 12 weeks to 17 weeks). 

When the boots arrived via DHL (1 week, due to Coronavirus), they were neatly wrapped in their box. On first look, there was no visual travel damage due to this protection. For the first time in my life, I was stuck looking at the boots for quite a while before trying them on.

Looking at the stitching, finishing, construction, sock-lining etc. it was all very impressive, the triple-stitched quarters, double stitch down forefoot, leather stacked heels, the rolled edges of the cuff, gusset tongue, re-enforced eyelets, even the inner sole had perfectly positioned arch support.

Now, to the hard part, one I was actually a bit hesitant at first, trying them on. This was my first made to order and partial-bespoke shoe/boot, so this was also a test. But to my surprise, they fit perfectly, the width, heel counter, vamp, length, it was all exactly how it should be.

The leather was at first stiff like expected and a little squeaky, the soles being quite thick (double soles plus a rubber half with the woodsmen heels), I was expecting them to break my feet until I wore them in.

I have a lot of shoes, all leather from makers around the world, I know the drill. These boots wore-in after the second wear and after the third/fourth they were even better. A friend of mine who has a few hand welted shoes, told me a long time ago, how comfortable they were not due to the last being made for him but the difference in insole construction.  

This difference is the actual depth between the footbed and the soles itself, many Goodyear welted soles have a cork filling of 4 mm between the footbed and sole, where a hand welted shoe has 1mm, due to a thicker leather footbed, meaning more comfort.

This I totally agree with, also having shoes or boots made for you, there won't be as much pressure on your toes and width whilst wearing them in. The leather upper is a pull-up style, it has worn very nicely and polishes well too.

After a good month or so of wear the boots have just become better. The upper is soft and shaped to my foot, as well as the innersole. Over-all I highly rate these boots, so much so, I actually ordered a pair of their Civilian shoes and War Horse Boots.

So far so good, nothing really sticks out that is negative unless we get uber technical and say some of the stitching isn't "perfect" and a little wonky.

I look forward to my new Txture shoes and boots. What would you get?

Photo from True Fit book

A few years ago I wrote an article for Acclaim Magazine about the endless recycling of blue jean styles in the fashion industry. I decided to update it for my own blog, due to the extra knowledge I have gained over the years since this article was published.

It’s always good to know where and why something was made, seeing as everything in the olden days was made for a clear functional purpose. Jeans have become a style staple in all our lives but why were they created and how far have we really come from its origins?

Levi Strauss, a pedlar who had immigrated to North America from Bavaria, followed the Gold Rush in California in the 1850s to sell his goods. Strauss put together work pants that were supposedly made out of brown canvas intended for tents. 

Tailor Jacob W. Davis, who was making workwear had a customer enter his store with a problem, his "overalls" kept ripping the pockets. Jacob thought about how to make them stronger and with the skills from horse-blanket making used rivets in the corners. An everlasting style was born, the crowds of buyers started flooding in and Jacob couldn't keep up with the workload, he needed help. 

Jacob reached out to Levi and asked for cooperation making these new riveted overalls. Together they got a patent for the design and built an empire over 17 years before the end of the patent, meaning other brands could use rivets too.  Then, in the 1860s, they began to fabricate pants made from 9oz denim, and because the pants were dyed indigo they were named “blue jeans”.

After the end of the gold and silver rush, the humble pair of jeans stopped being a practical item. Jeans slowed in sales and almost became a thing of the past until the 1930s were it evolved into a fashion statement. As subsequent styles have changed with purely aesthetic fashion trends and every now and then we seem to take a hot lap back to the beginning and start again. We’ve seen jeans go from being big and baggy to stove-pipe skinny, and back again for at least two more cycles—and, let’s admit it, we’ve all bowed to the puppet masters every single time, emptying our blue denim pockets along the way.

The 1800s

This is where it all began. Jeans were considered popular workwear by people who needed durable clothing that could withstand wear and tear, eg. miners, railroad workers and cowboys. The style was more roomy and straight cut, to be more comfortable for the workers.

1930

It was in the 1930s that Vogue turned workwear into “fashion”, featuring its first model in denim on the cover, hinting that jeans could perhaps be a fashion statement, and not just reserved for the true blue, hard yakka working man.

The 1950s

In the ’50s, it seemed like everyone wanted to be a T-Bird or a rebel (most likely a rebel). With schools banning jeans due to their notoriety as the “bad boy” uniform, movies with Marlon Brando and James Dean further backed this stereotype on the big screen. Not only were the jeans more a slim cut than baggy as represented by the classic 501 cuts, but they also started to become cropped and cuffed, allowing for more of the physique (and shoe choices) to be showcased.

The 1970s

Big hair, big flares. 

The disco era took some Saturday night heat out of the rebels’ movement and put it on the d-floor with flared bell-bottom jeans. The hippie dancing age not only brought literal flare to their denim but also sartorial flare, as personalising your jeans became al the rage. Custom embroidery, bright colours, stonewash, rhinestones, and patches were just some of the jean trends of the time.

The 1980s

Hair was even bigger but the denim was downsized. Outlandish trends really took over the denim industry in the ’80s and for all the guys that couldn’t put themselves through spandex sessions, there were super skinny stovepipe jeans instead. It was a little hard to see the practicality in these but with a diet of booze and Mr Brownstone being too fat for your jeans was probably not a concern for many of the time.  Stonewash, acid wash, and ripped jeans were some of the most popular looks, along with skinny leg cuts.

The 1990s

I know you want me to give you some kind of sign, girl, but Peter can be sent packing on this one. Instead, jeans went back to the 1800s, and full circle for the first time, with even bigger and baggier cuts. Rappers and the wider hip hop scene took the jean trophy and influenced the game so much that kids were wearing their baggies backwards. Another favoured look of the decade was the good old double denim AKA ‘Canadian Tuxedo’.

The 2000s

The acclaimed high-fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent once said, “I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity – all I hope for in my clothes.” Denim has become so iconic, it’s rare to find someone who has never worn a pair of jeans, in any one of the many iterations they have gone through.

Present-day trends have obviously been cooked up from many of the previous eras mentioned here, with a little ’50s style mixed with a dash of the ’90s and a sprinkling of 1800s on top, just for good measure. We are seeing less skinny-leg jeans and more relaxed or tapered cuts, and most recently it looks like flares and bell-bottoms are making a comeback (although this seems to be reserved for the ladies… so far). 

As to where the blue jean will be taken in the future is anyone’s guess. The rise of made-to-measure jeans and the introduction of more quality Japanese, Indonesian and Thai denim makers is probably where I’d put my money. If only I was a gambling man!

Photo by Pike Bros

Prior to WWII, the United States' armed forces had engaged in a number of campaigns in jungle terrain. However, there were no specialised units for jungle warfare, and no special equipment had been developed. The constant presence of water, sand, heat, and various insects, fungal and bacterial infections characterises jungle conditions. To equip soldiers for that environment, lightweight, durable, quick-drying boots that provided protection from jungle hazards ranging from mildew to punji sticks were required.

Punji stick is a simple spike, made out of wood or bamboo, which is sharpened, heated, and usually set in a hole. Other additional measures include coating the sticks in poison from plants, animal venom, or even human feces, causing infection or poisoning in the victim after being pierced by the sticks, even if the injury itself was not life-threatening.

The first jungle boots were made of canvas and rubber and were used in the South Pacific. The first model was standardised on August 31, 1942, and went into production the following year. It had a canvas duck top and a tongue that was attached to keep mud and insects out. The corrugated rubber sole provided adequate traction, and a removable fabric insole kept the feet away from the rubber. When worn with cushion sole socks, the boot was lightweight and kept the feet and lower legs comfortable. It was simple to clean and dry. However, it provided little assistance, resulting in troop complaints of "aching arches." The high canvas tops chafed the soldiers' legs, so they were frequently folded over or cut.

During the latter stages of World War II, a modified jungle boot was designed and tested. It was made of spun nylon with a leather midsole and a full-length rubber outsole. Production did not begin until the summer of 1945, near the end of the war, and the design of a successful jungle boot was not completed as the war came to an end.

1965 Jungle Boots

1962 Jungle boots

The constant presence of water, sand, heat, and various insects, fungal and bacterial infections characterises jungle conditions. To equip soldiers for that environment, lightweight, durable, quick-drying boots that provided protection from jungle hazards ranging from mildew to punji sticks were required.

From 21 February to 21 June 1966, the US Army Tropic Test Center in the Panama Canal Zone service tested the Third Pattern Panama Sole (Boot, Combat, Tropical, Direct Molded Sole with Spike Resistant Sole Shield) on 85 pairs of boots. The boots were worn by personnel from airborne, mechanised, and regular infantry battalions, special forces units, and field cadre at the US Army School of the Americas and the US Air Force Tropic Survival School. Among the applications were local unit training and field exercises. Spike protection tests were conducted elsewhere in the Army and were not part of the Panama test.

It's back, and it appears to be almost "normal" now. A past thought, lockdowns for the innocent, and the ability to travel beyond your postcode are no longer a pipe dream.

Will Pitti Uomo 103 be "business as usual"? What changes can we expect? Who has a distinct style? Who is still striving for "fame"?

Day 1 has just passed, and from what I've seen, there hasn't been much change. Styles remain similar, mainly classic with the odd "peacock".

Is there anything new? Most likely from the confident and self-assured! Here are a few favourites from Day 1 of Pitti Uomo 103, found via Instagram #pittiuomo103

Day 2 arrives at the Fortezza de Basso; the weather in Florence appears to be warmer than usual for this time of year.

After Day 1, I was really impressed by the comebacks of many stylish men. Bringing back old favourites in tailoring while remaining fresh and inspiring. The peacocks are entertaining, but the style benders are superior; they take looks outside the box and make them appear effortless and cohesive.

Classics, Monochrome, Color Pop, and Style Benders are four groups that keep popping up at Pitti 103.

The Classics

The Return,

It has been five years since my last visit to Pitti Uomo, the beautiful city of Florence, Italy. A lot has changed in my life since then. Currently, I work as a full-time cobbler and provide menswear consulting and styling services. While this is the current state of affairs, I would love to get back into my passion for tailoring and menswear in general. 

The first day of Pitti Uomo is typically less crowded than the middle two days. However, this year's first day felt even more sparse compared to what I remember. As I attended, I could dive into the trends I witnessed. One of the most prominent trends was the use of colour. Even black made an appearance on multiple days. Personally, on day two, I wore a black linen 1930s-inspired suit from Albert Clothing. As usual, I had my favourite looks of the day, but this time, I could really analyze and appreciate the trends.

Enjoy the photos of the colour below!

Green and yellow were also popular colour trends, appearing in various shades.

During Pitti Uomo 104, I observed a trend that I found both enjoyable and versatile - vertical stripes.

Unlike other patterns, vertical stripes complement all body types and sizes, without distorting the body's shape. In contrast, horizontal lines can add unwanted width to the body frame, making them challenging for some to wear. 

The best part about vertical stripes is that they are a timeless classic and will never go out of style. In the images below, you can see how vertical stripes of varying sizes and widths have been used to create unique visual effects in outfits, ranging from bold and vibrant to soft and subtle colour schemes.

The topic of fragrance and style is really intriguing. Only a few people bring up smell while discussing style, and when discussing fragrance, occasions are typically brought up but rarely the relation to one's style.

Sincerely, neither did I. My relationship with fragrance began briefly, mostly while travelling abroad for a holiday. When I first bought it, I would wear it every day of the vacation and store it in my drawer when I got home. By doing this, the fragrance will always remind me of that specific holiday anytime I wore it again.

The senses—touch, sight, and smell—are the foundation of the relationship I make between these topics. The more we can combine these senses, the more appealing it will be to a person. The same holds true while dining out, where sight, taste and smell come into play. 

We feel more confident when we look good, but if we also smell nice, others will notice that as well. Smell can turn heads or keep a person more engaged with you.

This subject serves as "food for thought," but I'll also go into what I discovered after putting this first idea into action.

What are your thoughts on the matter? Do you combine fragrance and style? Please leave a remark!

Olivier Polge made scent history for Dior in 2005. Dior Homme was at once original, sophisticated, and daring. It was not a traditional example of male fragrance, but rather a new concept of modern. The usage of strong iris notes in men's fragrances was a game-changer for the house. This moody purple fragrance flower emits a powdery, makeup-like scent, giving a mysterious but alluring trail.

Tsutomu Kiyama's bottle design is a work of art in its simplicity, and most modern designer fragrances for men incorporate iris into their DNA.

2005 Dior Homme - Top notes are Lavender, Sage and Bergamot; middle notes are Iris, Cacao, Amber and Cardamom; base notes are Leather, Tahitian Vetiver and Patchouli.

 

Dior Homme Intense 2007 by Dior is a Floral Woody Musk fragrance for men. Dior Homme Intense 2007 was launched in 2007. The nose behind this fragrance is Francois Demachy.

Dior Homme was relaunched in 2011. The nose behind this fragrance is Francois Demachy. The top notes are Lavender, Bergamot and Sage; the Middle notes are Iris, Cacao and Amber; the Base notes are Leather, Vetiver and Patchouli.

Dior Homme Intense 2011 by Dior is a Woody Floral Musk fragrance for men. Dior Homme Intense 2011 was launched in 2011. The nose behind this fragrance is Francois Demachy. The top note is Lavender; the middle notes are Iris, Ambrette (Musk Mallow) and Pear; the base notes are Virginia Cedar and Vetiver.

Dior Homme Parfum by Dior is a Leather fragrance for men. Dior Homme Parfum was launched in 2014. The nose behind this fragrance is Francois Demachy. The top notes are Tuscan Iris and Italian Orange; the Middle notes are Leather and Rose; the Base notes are Sandalwood, Ambrette (Musk Mallow), Agarwood (Oud) and Cedar.

In 2020, Dior Homme underwent a reformulation and the iris was dropped.

Dior Homme redefines a new, masculine sensuality in a polyphony of smooth and raw wood. A heart of tender wood, in which the virility of Atlas Cedar embraces the enveloping warmth of Haitian Vetiver tinged with spice. Wood hand-chiselled by Dior.

Dior Homme 2020 by Dior is a Woody fragrance for men. Dior Homme 2020 was launched in 2020. The nose behind this fragrance is Francois Demachy. The top notes are Bergamot, Pink Pepper and Elemi; the middle notes are Cashmere Wood, Atlas Cedar and Patchouli; the base notes are Iso E Super, Haitian Vetiver and White Musk.

Dior Homme Original by Dior is an Aromatic fragrance for men. Dior Homme Original was launched in 2021. The nose behind this fragrance is Francois Demachy. The top note is Tuscan Iris; the middle note is Guatemalan Cardamom; the base note is Vetiver.

It's obvious that this is my favourite scent house, and in keeping with APMM tradition, researching its past was essential. Especially in light of the influence this scent has had on men's cologne.