I buy expensive suits. They just look cheap on me
- Warren Buffet
It may have taken me a long time to bring this topic to light, but there's no easy "just buy this" solution to this particular problem...The 'off the rack' suit.
Like any clothing, the off the rack suit will vary in size and shape depending on the brand. Sure you can always get your suits altered, however this can only be done to a certain point before you run the risk of ruining the shape and drape of the original garment.
I did some research here in Melbourne (which involved me trying on suits from a selection of mid-range ($599-$999) brands - I think anything under a certain price isn't worth it in the longer run regardless of future wear or not) and these were the cuts and sizes that fit me the best with only some minor alterations needed*
1.MJ Bale
Most Australians know about this brand and when it comes to suiting MJ Bale aren't scared of using different fabrics. They also keep their lapels in the "fashion" range (smaller than standard). The regular fit worked best on me because the slim was too small in the waist (my best size is 38S (short) with a 32 pant).
The jacket would have to be shortened in the front and back lengths and same with the sleeves, while the pants I would want to be tapered slightly from the knee and shorten the hem. Over all MJ Bale are a good off the rack choice.
The jacket would have to be shortened in the front and back lengths and same with the sleeves, while the pants I would want to be tapered slightly from the knee and shorten the hem. Over all MJ Bale are a good off the rack choice.
2.Herringbone
Another nationally recognised brand and cousin to MJ Bale. Herringbone was brought out a few years ago by deutsche experts Van Laack, so I decided to see if/what differences there were now compared to suits I had tried on in the past.
38R (Regular) fit me best with a 32 pant and these are generally my "go to" sizes as my real measurements are very close to this.
Unfortunately the jacket was too big and would have to be taken up quite a bit and the pants shortened and tapered from the knee. What I do like the most about this brand is fabric quality and their standard lapel size.
38R (Regular) fit me best with a 32 pant and these are generally my "go to" sizes as my real measurements are very close to this.
Unfortunately the jacket was too big and would have to be taken up quite a bit and the pants shortened and tapered from the knee. What I do like the most about this brand is fabric quality and their standard lapel size.
3.Joe Black
A younger Australian brand, Joe Black's image is classic but young. I tried on a 38S and the lengths were great with the pants taken up and tapered as usual. The shoulders on these jackets are more padded, which doesn't sit too well on my shape, the waist is more roomy (personally I'd nip it in a little) I didn't like the small lapel, which runs the risk of making you look bigger and that's only a plus if you're really skinny.
4.Hardy Amies
The new name on the scene here and originally from the UK. Hardy Amies have a mix of classic and contemporary in their suiting and are seen on the catwalks of London. I was quite interested to see how they would fit into the Australian market. The best fit for me was a 38 in their "Brinsley" collection, which would only need a slight adjustment to the jacket and sleeve. Unfortunately I didn't get to try any pants but the fabric was nice and the jacket lapels were of standard sizing. My one negative so far for this brand would be the small collection of suits that they have available, but at least the basics are covered.
5.Gibson
This young brand falls under the Cambridge company umbrella, alongside Joe Black. I tried on a 38S jacket and was surprised that it fit very well. The waist is suppressed and the shoulders have a light padding. My only negative is that once again the lapels are very small. Gibson seems to be targeting a younger market with a more "fashion" angle - The pants I didn't get a chance to try on.
*This isn't a complete review on all brands and obviously everyones body shapes are different. It's important to remember that taking in is better than letting out, unless it's a very small amount. I know what I like and as a result may have been negative about some things which other people may like in a suit, so in the end it's your decision but I hope that I have helped you out with some knowledge.