Last year (2019) I came across and started researching the Indonesian denim (and boot making scene).
It is actually quite big and the skill level is on par with many great denim brands/makers today.
The only difference I have come across is in the fit of the garments. As many might already clue on to, the Indonesian demographic are built smaller than many westerners.
Buying products from these brands is usually done via their social media platforms (or Whatsapp) unless you pay a visit to their brick and mortar stores.
Everyone I have encountered has had a size chart easily available, this is where you need to know your denim.
Denim as we know it can be very heavy and stiff, the higher the "oz" rating the harder to wear in, plus if it is unsanforized, you'll have the starch to breakthrough as well. (Many opting to cold soak before wearing.)
One other crucial factor I have come across personally is the rise height, many have a lower rise or medium. I like a higher rise due to a prominent seat, if too low, I reveal a trademark in plumbing or my voice raises an octave.
That being said here are the brands I've experienced thus far!
Hoya Feilds MFG
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This brand although they have denim, has more of a military vibe with their other products.
I own a type 1 jacket and s/s chambray shirt. The shirt fits great and is well made, the only thing that I'm not into is the hard fused collar. The jacket is made in a 15oz broken twill raw sanforized denim. The fit is slim around the waist and a little long for me in the body.
Firebird MFG
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This brand is heavily into needlework with their denim, with some signature products like the "Ghastly" Jacket, featuring a firebird logo stitched into the unique chest pockets and pocket details on their "Diamondback" jeans.
They also have a few other garments like a battledress jacket and a type 2 corduroy jacket (which I own).
The "Ghastly" type 2 Corduroy Jacket is more of a shirt jacket made in a 13oz fabric with aluminium rivets. Slim fit around the waist.
Seagull Denim
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Celebrating their 10th anniversary, Seagull denim has a big following in South-East Asia. Their loom state rope dyed unsanforized selvedge denim is woven especially for the brand and the construction is in-line with some of the best in the world.
I own all their anniversary denim; 14oz, 16oz, 17oz and 18oz. I love everything about these jeans bar the low front rise, but this does not stop me wearing them at all!
Nedjan Company
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Nedjan is a "dry goods" brand producing garments which are solid commodities. In other words solid denim garments.
They have a variety of jackets and jeans so far, with more coming soon, as they are a young brand.
I own their Type 2 RB-004 jacket, a mix for type 2, type 1 and Boss of the Road details.
Made in a 14.5oz raw white weft denim, this jacket is a cowboy cut. It stops right on the waistline and has a slightly wider shoulder line. Out of my new denim jackets, this is my favourite.
It is actually quite big and the skill level is on par with many great denim brands/makers today.
The only difference I have come across is in the fit of the garments. As many might already clue on to, the Indonesian demographic are built smaller than many westerners.
Buying products from these brands is usually done via their social media platforms (or Whatsapp) unless you pay a visit to their brick and mortar stores.
Everyone I have encountered has had a size chart easily available, this is where you need to know your denim.
Denim as we know it can be very heavy and stiff, the higher the "oz" rating the harder to wear in, plus if it is unsanforized, you'll have the starch to breakthrough as well. (Many opting to cold soak before wearing.)
One other crucial factor I have come across personally is the rise height, many have a lower rise or medium. I like a higher rise due to a prominent seat, if too low, I reveal a trademark in plumbing or my voice raises an octave.
That being said here are the brands I've experienced thus far!
Hoya Feilds MFG
This brand although they have denim, has more of a military vibe with their other products.
I own a type 1 jacket and s/s chambray shirt. The shirt fits great and is well made, the only thing that I'm not into is the hard fused collar. The jacket is made in a 15oz broken twill raw sanforized denim. The fit is slim around the waist and a little long for me in the body.
Firebird MFG
This brand is heavily into needlework with their denim, with some signature products like the "Ghastly" Jacket, featuring a firebird logo stitched into the unique chest pockets and pocket details on their "Diamondback" jeans.
They also have a few other garments like a battledress jacket and a type 2 corduroy jacket (which I own).
The "Ghastly" type 2 Corduroy Jacket is more of a shirt jacket made in a 13oz fabric with aluminium rivets. Slim fit around the waist.
Seagull Denim
Celebrating their 10th anniversary, Seagull denim has a big following in South-East Asia. Their loom state rope dyed unsanforized selvedge denim is woven especially for the brand and the construction is in-line with some of the best in the world.
I own all their anniversary denim; 14oz, 16oz, 17oz and 18oz. I love everything about these jeans bar the low front rise, but this does not stop me wearing them at all!
Nedjan Company
Nedjan is a "dry goods" brand producing garments which are solid commodities. In other words solid denim garments.
They have a variety of jackets and jeans so far, with more coming soon, as they are a young brand.
I own their Type 2 RB-004 jacket, a mix for type 2, type 1 and Boss of the Road details.
Made in a 14.5oz raw white weft denim, this jacket is a cowboy cut. It stops right on the waistline and has a slightly wider shoulder line. Out of my new denim jackets, this is my favourite.