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Shoulder On

October 13, 2013, 5:29 am
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"Men are always looking for someone to boast to; women are always looking for a shoulder to put her head on."
                                                                                                                           - H. L. Mencken

It's a feature that holds the garment & starts the 'drape' - the shoulders. Because of this, I've found this to be a great starting point when finding the right fit for shirts, jackets and coats. 




Sloping, Squared, Rolled, Normal, Neapolitan.... don't be overwhelmed by all the terms that might get thrown at you. Sloping and Squared shoulders are exactly as they sound. Your shoulders slope downward or they are square to your body. A 'Normal' shoulder shape is your in-between. 

So far, so straight-forward, but then we need to consider the shoulder 'crown' or top of the sleeve where it meets the shoulder. Here the options are Roped, Natural, Soft, Padded and Neapolitan. 

Roped crowns are high shoulder crowns that peak above the shoulder line. These are good for acentuating the shoulders. As a general rule, this cut should be avoided by the tall and slender.

Natural shoulders have no padding at all, giving the garment a more casual or shirt-like fit and look. Quite nice on big shoulders as they don't square them off, helping to avoid a 'boxy' look.

Soft shoulders have a little padding, so can still be worn by those with bigger shoulders when you are looking for smarter, more formal finish. (This is the style I am wearing in these photos).




Padded shoulders are very classic and square. Definitely recommended for a slender man wanting to bulk up the figure.

Lastly, Neapolitan shoulders have been designed for ultimate comfort and movability  With a narrow shoulder and a wider sleeve which is finished with small scalped pleats on the sleeve head, I'm yet to come across a body shape that this classic cut does not suit.  










Jacket by Suit Your Style
Shirt by Trashness
Pants by Ben Sherman
Pocket Square by Henry Bucks
Sunglasses by Bailey Nelson
Monks by Loake
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OH Campaign 2013

October 16, 2013, 3:38 am
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Over the past few months I've been working with the team at Oscar Hunt Tailors to style their Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign. You may even notice I've made a bit of a cameo in a few of the shots.

It was a great opportunity to express a little bit of myself in every outfit and I thank the OH team for trusting me to put my own creative spin on things. I really relished the process of seeing my concepts become reality. 

Sam Wong shot some fantastic images & here's hoping for more opportunities like this in the future.

I hope you all enjoy the campaign.
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Classics are forever

October 20, 2013, 5:08 am
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A classic is a book that has never finished saying what it has to say.
                                                                                                      - Italo Calvino




There are certain items of clothing that can be worn for years (if not decades) that never seem to become old and outdated. These are the classics. 

Classics for me are what style is all about. They aren't the same for everyone - we all have our individual tastes, but I believe we should all aim to have a solid foundation of classic staples in our wardrobes.

I have a puppy tooth check jacket that's great for the colder weather but I wanted to create a check I could wear in spring too. So I took this classic country check fabric, removed all the lining and canvas, softened the shoulders and now I have a lightweight, breathable, shirt-like jacket that's great for the warmer months. 

I foresee this instant classic will be a wardrobe staple for many seasons to come.






Jacket, Shirt, Chinos & Tie by Oscar Hunt
Pocket Square by Ascot
Socks by Happy Socks
Shoes by Grenson
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Hat Enough Yet?

October 24, 2013, 5:40 am
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Cock your hat - angles are attitudes
                                                - Frank Sinatra

Hats are great for those lazy hair days... for the rainy days, for the sunny days too. 

In my experience, it can be a little tricky to get a hat to suit you. Hats, like clothing are better suited to specific seasons and there are so many options when it comes to styles, heights and brim widths, so it may be worth your while to get some advice on fitting from a professional. 

Here in Australia, summer is just around the corner. This season I have several styles on my radar, including a classic Panama hat, straw trilby and linen flat cap. With these in my wardrobe, I'll have a hat for every occasion, from formal to casual. Everyone can wear them differently of course. Remember, if you're confident in your look, your style is never wrong and a hat adds a little flair to top off every outfit.

Here are some of my current favourites:



1. Akubra Casablanca

2. Camilo

3. Christys

4. Christys

5. Camilo Trilby

6. Stentson silk/linen flat cap 


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Pin up Business

October 27, 2013, 3:13 am
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I don't care where we're going; I'm gonna wear a suit all day, every day.
                                                - Ray Lewis

I'm all about the pinstripe suit. It gives me height and slims me down. That's a lot to ask from one outfit. 



The pinstripe is a bonafide classic. It can be subtle or bold & sure, it's a little more challenging to break up as separates but sometimes you need a challenge.  

When it came to choosing my new pinstripe suit I wanted it all; a bold, classic, "Scarface" Italian style suit that could be worn casually at the same time. This was done by combining parts of southern Italy's Napoli suit structuring on the inside with the North's classic styling on the outside. My little baby was created by local Melbourne tailors Oscar Hunt with only a 4 week wait & in the end I've walked away with exactly what I wanted - a wide rope pinstripe suit with no canvas, half lining, a cool weave (open weave) fabric that would be great for business while also looking the business.








 
Suit & Shirt by Oscar Hunt
Tie & Braces by Henry Bucks
Socks by Patherella
Pocket Square by Ascot
Monks by Loake
Bag by Hackett
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A Morning to Suit.

October 30, 2013, 3:09 am
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Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formal wear
                                                                                - Luciano Barbera



During the 19th century, gentlemen began dressing for their morning horse ride. From this practice evolved the morning suit, which has now become an extravagant display of style worn for weddings and royal racing events. 

The morning suit consists of a tailed coat, waistcoat and trouser all matched in colour - typically in Morning Grey/Medium Grey and accompanied by a top hat and optional walking stick (or umbrella where appropriate, as demonstrated by The Prince of Wales). 


Spring forward to 2013 and I love that people are now taking the morning suit to another level and adding their own personality to it. The colours are getting brighter, more patterns are being added and a new breed of morning suit is beginning to emerge. 

During Melbourne Spring Racing Carnival, Derby Day is the big day for wearing a morning suit. Sadly I won't be attending Derby Day this year, but here are some standout morning suits for the modern era: For all your Morning Suit needs in Melbourne, head to Henry Bucks!
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Double, No Trouble.

November 3, 2013, 2:46 am
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 Style is when they’re running you out of town and you make it look like you’re leading the parade.
                                                                        - William Battie



I overheard a man asking if wearing a double breasted suit or jacket was the new trend, and if so how does one wear it without looking like his grandpa.

It's definitely not a trend but more of a classic that is making a long overdue comeback.  
Tailoring a DB jacket to your body can actually accentuate your figure and on colder days give you a much needed extra layer. Dressing down a DB jacket can be just as easy as a single breasted sports jacket too, just as I've done, teaming my brushed cotton Khaki DB jacket with jeans. The DB may not be to everyone's taste, but they're anything but old fashioned.









DB Jacket & Shirt by Oscar Hunt Tailors
Jeans by Dejour
Socks by Falke (from Henry Bucks)
Shoes by Tricker's
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A Hot Cup of Melbourne, Please.

November 6, 2013, 3:56 am
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“Clothes and manners do not make the man; but when he is made, they greatly improve his appearance.”                                                                                         - Arthur Ashe



Betting, booze, banter and beautiful women can sum up the Melbourne Cup to some, but apart from this it's actually a time when a lot of guys who wouldn't normally do so, will throw on a suit and dress for the occasion. Many don't care if the suit doesn't look good or what it costs, because it's only going to be worn for that one day of careless bliss. 

Careless bliss is one thing, but what I love about the new menswear scene is the extra effort some guys are making to dress up, and in some cases go that extra mile to steal the limelight away from their partners by dressing at their best. 

Your best doesn't have to be high end expensive labels but it's more about the way your pieces fit your body. Don't forget, you still need to have fun with your style and be comfortable too, especially important for a day at Flemington racecourse.

It's the glitz, the glamour and the great times at the Melbourne Cup which I really enjoy…. oh and apparently it's a horse race too! 








A BIG thank you to the guys at M J Bale for dressing me up in this great blazer and pants.

Blazer and Pants by MJ Bale
Shirt by Oscar Hunt Tailors
Tie by Penrose London (from Henry Bucks)
Panama Hat by Camilo (from Henry Bucks)
Sunglasses by Bailey Nelson
Shoes by Loake
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Peter Werth Launch - an interview with brand manager Peter Lyons

November 8, 2013, 4:02 am
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Last week I was invited to attend the opening party for UK menswear label Peter Werth's first Australian store. Located at the Windsor end of Chapel Street, the launch gave me the opportunity to meet & interview Peter Werth brand manager Peter Lyons for makersofmelbourne.com



PL: The brand was founded in London by Peter and the very first show room was up the street from our current location in Islington. Founded by Peter on the 28th of April 1975, London is at the heart of our brand and for almost 40 years we never moved outside of London, until now. There aren’t many brands that can say that they’ve stayed true to their roots and the city is still at the heart of this brand. 1975 was an era for fashion in the UK with a very distinct significance in terms of trend influence it was important both in terms of fashion and music. The life of the brand started in knitwear with this (points to knitted polo shirt) the knitted polo shirt.

APMM – Did you have competition with John Smedley or anyone along those lines?

PL:Of course today Smedley’s arguably the definitive reference point for fine gauge knitwear of course, but Smedley’s positioning is a little higher than ours, especially in terms of price range.

APMM – It certainly is

PL:It’s an inescapable fact that our first product was this long sleeved polo, so the same way that Fred Perry’s reference point is a polo shirt and Ben Sherman’s is a button down Oxford, ours is this. That’s where it all stemmed from.

APMM – That’s where it has flowed from year on, year on?

PL:It does, if truth be told Peter wasn’t necessarily a brand person so he may not necessarily appreciate the value of that. I spent 12 years working for Fred Perry, so for me your origins are what gives you your value. That’s you provenance, that’s what gives you your reason for being. They deliver the authenticity. For us it’s about capturing the essence of all of those things, both physically and emotionally – and delivering those to our audience.



APMM – And is everything made in England or do you source from elsewhere?

PL:In the modern world it’s very difficult to make all of your products in the UK but we do make a big chuck of our outerwear is made in England, some of our knitwear is made in England but we make some in Italy as well. Some of our other products are made in Europe and 15% of our products are made in the Far East. There’s been a big swing back to making products in Europe, and it’s all about finding the right solution to fit the needs of our customers. As you probably would have gathered we are delivering a brand at a certain price point and we want it to be accessible. It’s a design led brand, which has a degree of aspiration about it, but we are delivering at an accessible price point.

APMM – Is the quality of the products the same all year round?

PL:Absolutely, we have a quality standard which must be adhered to, we use a certain weight or jersey fabric, we use a certain quality of base fabrics for our shirting and we would never sacrifice that.

PL:What we will do is play around with certain fabrics to suit certain products, for example our outerwear fabrics come from Italy but in terms of delivering the types of aesthetic that we need to deliver, we have to use certain fabrics from certain sources.

APMM – You said that the brand started in 1975 and it was a significant time for music and fashion, do you think that the label still has that relationship with music, is it still important to the brand?

PL:I think the fashion industry has an extricable link with music generally. With us as a brand it’s not something that we particularly pursue, there are brands like Fred Perry who do that and do it very well – for us it’s more about the individual, so we may find that we have an individual from the music world who plays to our sensibilities and we play to his and likewise there’ll be people from the film world. But really it’s about personality. To bring everything up to date though, we’ve just been working with Olly Murs and will be dressing him for forthcoming events, we’ve got no problem doing that, he’s got a great sense of style and he’s a nice guy. So we’re very happy to wardrobe him. At the same time it could be someone from the arts world or anybody that plays toward the sensibilities of this brand – We’re very clean, you’ll never find a frayed edge on this brand, we’re very sharp and if that appeals to your sense of style than you’re going to like our brand.



APMM:We’ve had a lot of British high street brands that have come into the country over the past year or two, is that why Peter Werth chose to launch here in Australia?

PL:Not really. As you may have heard 4 years ago now I got a call from Bruce Hutchins (general manager) who told me that he wanted to launch the brand here in Australia. It’s a country 12,000 miles away and to be honest it’s not the first place that you think about, or didn’t back then I should say, but there are synergies of course, not least in terms of our language and to some extent our sensibilities are not dissimilar. So when Bruce approached me we thought, ok let’s give it a go. If it doesn’t work we can probably hide all evidence of it somewhere and no one will ever have to know. The Australian market has become more in focus for the UK fashion industry. We deal with people like ASOS and Australia is their second biggest market after the UK and they sell to something like 47 markets. The market here is bigger than China and the USA. I think there’s a slight misconception that the Australian male consumer is all about a pair of flip flops and a pair of shorts there are guys clearly here who are looking for something more. If there wasn’t then we wouldn’t exist, ASOS wouldn’t exist, Topman wouldn’t have opened up down the road, so there’s clearly an appetite and there also seems to be an appetite for things that are quintessentially British, we are very happy to be here.

APMM – There’s a lot of Australian guys who just want nice menswear. They don’t want ‘fashion forward’ or feminine inspired, there’s a lot of guys out there who don’t so much lack a personality when it comes to fashion, they just haven’t been able to find clothing that appeals to them. Brands such as yourself and Topman are feeding Aussie men who like fashion.

PL:I walked through David Jones today and you can find brands like Hackett so clearly there’s an appetite. I like to think that where we can meet that demand is through giving men a good product at a price point that isn’t going to burn a huge hole in your pocket.  





http://makersofmelbourne.com/2013/peter-werth/




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Smart Spring Sunday.

November 10, 2013, 3:04 am
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"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”
                                              - Leonardo da Vinci




It's Spring - the sun is out but it can still be quite brisk this time of the year, especially in Melbourne. These trans-seaonal days can be can be hot then cold and wet then dry, so today to accommodate the shifting weather, I've gone for a mix of fabrics. Linen trousers, a fine pique polo and a Sports jacket - all are fine for a smart but casual Spring day, but to add interest, I've reversed the tones and put light onto dark. A lighter jacket highlights my face enough so wearing darker tones won't wash me out. This works well with my high contrast features. 

This process is easier than you think. By looking at yourself in the mirror, you can watch what colours wash you out whilst trying on jackets, polos even shirt and tie combinations. 

To finish off I used a third colour to marry the outfit together in my choice of shoes and pocket square. Done.











Jacket from Thrift Store
Polo by Barbour (from Henry Bucks)
Pants by Oscar Hunt Tailors
Pocket Square by Paolo Albizzati (from Henry Bucks)
Sunglasses by Cutler  & Gross
Shoes by Jocent Royal
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November Instagram Roundup

November 14, 2013, 3:04 am
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It's been months of Campaign's, Launches, New Books, Art and a little retail therapy from my work Henry Buck's. Here's a taste of what I've been up to;

You can find A Poor Man's Millions on Instagram HERE.
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Days I Live For..

November 18, 2013, 3:24 am
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 “Real luxury is understanding quality, and having the time to enjoy it.”
                                                                                     - G. Bruce Boyer




When I get a day to myself, must admit, I love to sleep in. But when the sun is out, I'd rather be up & in it for as long as possible.

I love summer. Growing up away from the coast means now I'll take up any any chance to laze on a beach or take advantage of the surf. Nowadays I reside near the harbour, so even after my morning trip down to the beach, I'm still happy to sit out on the pier and enjoy the afternoon sun. I seriously love these kind of days…






Polo by Barbour (From Henry Bucks)
Shorts by Honor Among Thieves
Sunglasses by Bailey Nelson
Loafers by Swims (From Henry Bucks)
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Polo Wish List

November 22, 2013, 2:28 am
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From smart to casual with a suit, jacket or paired with shorts, the polo shirt is one of my staples for summer. French tennis champion René Lacoste designed a white, short-sleeved, loose knit piqué cotton shirt with a collar, buttoned placket & shirt-tail to wear at the 1926 US Open. The term polo shirt, which previously had referred to the long-sleeved buttoned-down shirts traditionally used in polo, soon became a universal name to describe a tennis shirt in the 1950's.

All these polo shirts have a unique character and style, which is why they've made my wish list.


1. Sunspel have been an around since 1860 and are renowned for their great quality polo shirts. Just ask Daniel Craig.

2. Another renowned brand producing quality Polo tees is John Smedley. With their 'best or nothing' ethos,  owning a Smedley polo is pure luxury.

3. Kent Wang is a newcomer for me but I'm hearing amazing things about them from friends and followers.

4. Avon Celli have been producing garments in Milan since 1922. Their old world production techniques continue across the board in the making of these light weight garments.

5. Barbour is a brand everyone would be familiar with. I thought I should put them on my list as I own their polos and love them for price, quality and fit. These work great for my wardrobe and style, so I heartily recommend them.

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Great F@#%ing Suit

November 25, 2013, 4:13 am
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“Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.” 
                                                                                          - Orson Welles



A compliment can make your day, especially from strangers, but as the saying goes, fortune favours the brave. Step outside your sartorial safe zone, forget rules, ignore people who say what you can or can't do & only then can you take your first steps into not only creating your own style, but owning it! 



There are people who abide by the old world "rules" of dressing & there are others who feel too awkward to dress in a way that looks like they may have thought too long about it. Even just tucking in a shirt can be challenging for some. 

This can all change. Don't worry about what people may think or say, nor worry about rules. Build your wardrobe whilst building your confidence and the compliments will follow.






Suit and Shirt by Oscar Hunt Tailors
Tie by Tino Cosma (vintage)
Pocket Square by Paolo Albizzati (from Henry Bucks)
Sunglasses by Bailey Nelson
Shoes by Church's Footwear (from Henry Bucks)
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Get Socked!

November 28, 2013, 4:59 am
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I know, I know. I don't really wear socks in summer, but of course I still wear socks - this is Melbourne & it still gets damn cold! 

When I do wear socks I always go for quality brands. Why? Because I'm sick of wearing socks twice and having my toes kick straight though....bye bye $$$. Here are some of the sock brands I have found to be worth you dollar/pounds/euros.



1. Happy Socks

Easily Australia's main sock, with great colours and patterns these are a must for a lot of sock exposure!

2. Barnaby

New on the market this year, this new comer has a little quirk of it's own with a workable button to keep those pairs together.

3.Paul Smith

He doesn't do wrong by many, what more can you say about Mr. Paul Smith and his style/brand.

4. Bresciani

Started in 1970, the  company’s attention to detail hits on every level with the selection of the finest and natural yarns in cotton, wool, cashmere, hemp, silk and linen.


5. Falke

Starting out in 1895 as a small knitting company and eventually expanding to a mill and so on. They made it through the war and keep winning on and on with their great quality products.


6. Pantherella

Making socks from high grade materials for over 70 years, these are my personal favourite. I love their classic range of patterns and colours and give you a little piece of classic history to any style.

(Most of these brands can be found online or if your in Melbourne at my place of work Henry Buck's, where you can pop by for a chat too!)
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Orlebar Brown

September 4, 2013, 6:53 pm
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I was recently invited by mens resort & swimwear label Orlebar Brown to be a guest blogger for their new 'Insider's Guide' series. APMM was honoured to be one of only two Australian blogs to take part in this London label's new city guide series & I hope you all agree with my recommendations. 

You can find the full article on the Orlebar Brown website.
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Stile Estivo Italiano

December 1, 2013, 2:42 am
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One pretends to do something, or copy someone or some teacher, until it can be done confidently and easily in what becomes one’s own style.
                                                              - Cary Grant



Italian summers can be hot, very hot, and yet the people dress so well. Italian men seem relaxed and happy, not over heated and uncomfortable, nor do they use the temperature as an excuse to dress sloppily. 


This is why I look to Italy as an influence as the thermostat rises here in Australia; the same reason when winter hits, I take inspiration from the English.

I really don't think just because it's hot I need to wear a singlet, shorts and flip flops, unless I'm headed poolside.  So today as it hits a pleasant 32c, I feel at home in a light trouser, linen shirt and linen blazer. An item easily removed at the hottest point of the day.


My vintage Gucci horse-bit loafers are worn sockless. These shoes were actually white when I first purchased them, so I had to pull out the acetone and dye them up. The experiment was partially successful, as they ended up more navy blue than black, though I'm very happy with the result. 





Jacket and Pants by Phi Phi Tailor
Shirt by Oscar Hunt Tailors
Pocket Square by Henry Bucks
Loafers by Gucci
Sunglasses by Cutler & Gross
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Polo, No Horse

December 8, 2013, 2:50 am
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The purpose of art is washing the dust of daily life off our souls.
                                                                           - Pablo Picasso

I don't know about you, but there are some items of clothing that after years in the sartorial wilderness, I have started to finally reinstate into my wardrobe. One of these items is the polo shirt. 





From school to work uniform, up until my thirties,  I just didn't want to know about them. It's taken quite a few years to clean the slate and let the polo back into my home. Style is a form of personal expression, so just like the rest of the items in my closet, I needed to find a version of the polo that conveyed my personality. Besides finding the right colours to blend with the rest of my summer wardrobe the polos I've started to wear have to fit well, be constructed to last and be of quality. The simpler the piece of clothing, the more important these factors seem to become. 












Polo by Barbour (From Henry Bucks)
Chinos by Topman
Shoes by Sperry (From Henry Bucks)
Sunglasses by Bailey Nelson
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Orlebar Brown 'Around The World In 24 Bloggers'

December 10, 2013, 4:08 am
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London menswear company Orlebar Brown recently invited APMM to take part in their Christmas feature 'Around The World in 24 Bloggers'. We're honoured to appear as their featured blogger today & to be included among such great company. You can see my story & check out the other featured bloggers on the Orlebar Brown website
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$10 Hat on a 5 cent Head..

December 15, 2013, 12:08 am
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 I often take a brand-new suit or hat and throw it up against the wall a few times to get that stiff, square newness out of it.
                                          - Fred Astaire

You've found your perfect hat, but how do you wear it? What do you wear it with? It can be hard enough to find the 'right' hat but then you have to figure out how to wear it so you don't feel self conscious. It can be a headache all over again.



My new soft fur felt trilby is a good example. It's very traditional in a sense, but being a foldable hat softens its features and shape to give it a slightly more casual feel. 

Personally I wouldn't wear this with a full summer look. A wider brimmed Panama is more suitable for high Summer. But while the Melbourne weather is still mild, this headwear is perfect to literally top off a smart casual look. 

A quick point I'll make is to say it might be worthwhile paying a little extra to purchase fur felt instead of wool felt - it's a lot nicer to wear all year around. Try different colours and styles with different outfits and take note of the above quote by Fred Astaire. The same tip goes for shoes too. When something is a little worn in and has melded to you, it takes on your character. I also make sure I style my hair underneath the hat in case I need to take it off. Don't just wear it to excuse a bad hair day.









Hat by Christy's London (from City Hatters)
Jacket by MJ Bale
Shirt by Oscar Hunt Tailors
Pants by Suit Your Style
Braces by Henry Bucks
Socks by Pantherella (from Henry Bucks)
Loafers by Crockett & Jones
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